Arctic Expedition- DAY 2

DAY 2: FUN!

Expedition Glossary

• Fleece tröja (fleece jacket),
• Frusen (frozen),
• Handvärmare (handwarmers),
• Hjälm (helmet),
• Hundspann (dog sled),
• Järngruva (ironmine)
• Norrsken (Northern Lights, Aurora Borealis)
• Polcirkeln (Arctic Circle),
• Pensionärer (retirees),
• Pälsmössa med öronlappar (furry earflap hat),
• Rensoppa (reindeer stew),
• Snöskoter (snowmobile),
• Snöskulpturer (snowsculptures),
• Stativ (tripod),
• Underställ (long underwear).

We awake to sunshine and clear skies. And the most beautiful pinkish light I think I’ve ever seen. Looks like a perfect day for exploring the country on snöskoter. The tour will take us over frusen lakes and rivers, through snowy woods, to the ICEHotel.


After taking a bit of time to sort out varma kläder (warm clothing) for the group, we get going! Varma kläder for me meant the following: high-tech wool underställ, jeans, fleece jacket, scarf, long down coat, wool glove liners, handvärmare, ski mittens, wool socks, fleece socks, snöskoter boots, snow overalls (like what little kids wear), knit cap, and hjälm. I never in my life felt or looked so much like the Michelin Man. Our fellow tour members, all from Hong Kong, especially seemed to enjoy the experience before we even mounted up.

The countryside was breathtaking. And since I was not too cold, I could actually enjoy it and revel in the beauty. Moreover, that beautiful pinkish-peach colored light stayed with us the entire day. It was that type of soft, pastel light one would think of for dawn or dusk. I went to Kiruna on a mission to see norrsken, but I experienced an entirely different light that was just as exhilarating.

The ICEHotel lived up to its reputation. I did keep thinking it reminded me of a very large, very sophisticated, snöslott (snow fort), though. Anders and I were very impressed by the level of detail in some of the rooms. We were both, however, very glad not to be staying there. The idea of being cold all day and then crawling into an ice bed, albeit in a warm sleeping bag, just was not that enticing for us. Had we not arrived already chilled after 1.5 hours on a snowmobile, perhaps we could have been more excited by the prospect of an overnight stay.

On the way back, we stopped beside the river and warmed up with rensoppa in a Sami-style tält (tent). The Samis are the native people of the area.

We traded pinkish daylight for greenish norrsken that night. Since we were on a hundspann, though, there was no time to fiddle with the stativ to attempt to capture the sight with the camera. (not to mention trying to see in the dark to play with the camera settings). But now that we’re ‘experienced,’ we are already talking about going back next year to do just that. The hundspann was a once in a lifetime adventure. Our team of Alaskan Huskies were in a frenzied state of excitement before they were even connected to the sled. Amazing how all the barking, whining, and howling were instantly snuffed out by the simple command, Hike! Absolute silence afterwards, save for the ‘shush’ of the sled gliding on the snow. A magical moment under a super starry sky.

More than anything, I think this trip showed us the importance of exploring our ‘backyard’. It’s such a shame that so few Swedes (not even my husband) had been that far north. Our tour guides seemed more interested in him as a Swedish tourist than in those from faraway lands. I guess it’s no different from a New Yorker who’s never been to the Empire State Building or to the Statue of Liberty. When something is seemingly so close, I guess it loses its exoticism. There are plenty of people from the UK, Germany, Italy, Ukraine, Spain, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Japan, and the US, among others who could tell the Swedish people about what they’re missing.


I am very happy to have checked Kiruna off my travel bucket list, but I am just as happy to return for Arctic Expedition#2. Who's with me?

Arctic Expedition-- DAY 1

DAY 1: ADJUSTMENT

Expedition Glossary

• Fleece tröja (fleece jacket),
• Frusen (frozen),
• Handvärmare (handwarmers),
• Hjälm (helmet),
• Hundspann (dog sled),
• Järngruva (ironmine)
• Norrsken (Northern Lights, Aurora Borealis)
• Polcirkeln (Arctic Circle),
• Pensionärer (retirees),
• Pälsmössa med öronlappar (furry earflap hat),
• Rensoppa (reindeer stew),
• Snöskoter (snowmobile),
• Snöskulpturer (snowsculptures),
• Stativ (tripod),
• Underställ (long underwear).

Lying 90 miles north of the polcirkeln in Lappland, Kiruna is the northernmost city in Sweden. Its very existence is owed to the presence of a very large järngruva. A planned city, the mining company LKAB created the city’s population. The järngruva has been in operation for over 100 years and promises to continue for at least 30 more. The järngruva, Sweden’s tallest mountain Kebnekaise, the nearby ICEHotel, and norrsken are Kiruna’s main tourist draws. Snow can last from mid-October to mid-May, and according to residents, doesn’t significantly melt until August. (I guess that puts even the worst of Stockholm winters in perspective!)

My reason for going to Kiruna-- to say I’ve been to the Arctic Circle and/or have seen the Northern Lights.

My Swedish husband’s reason for going to Kiruna-- he was forced to go.

Excitement and Adjustment

In any mountain expedition, one must ascend slowly to acclimate one’s body to the altitude. Our Polar Expedition was no different. Day 1 for us was about adjusting minds and bodies to Kiruna time and temperature.

10:30am- we leave the hotel in search of snöskulpturer and other snow fun from the Snow Festival. It’s snowing and there’s quite a gusty wind. Conversation before leaving the hotel includes the famous words (from the Swede, not me), “I won’t need scarf, yet. It’s not that cold.”

10:45am- the hearty Swede is broken. He is frusen and has been re-enacting Bambi på isen (Bambi on the ice). Luckily, he has his afraid-of-the-cold-wife in her layers of high-tech underställ and fleece, and sturdy boots to walk him into InterSport (a Swedish sporting goods chain store) where we procure new boots and turtle-style halsduk. Crisis averted.

11:30am- we confidently (and somewhat warmly) emerge from InterSport, take a lap around the city center, and admire the snöskulpturer in progress. We then catch the band outside FolketsHus (the community center) for a few minutes before going inside to warm up and decide what to do next. After speaking to the Tourist Bureau and checking out the locals’ handicrafts for sale, we decide we might as well do what the locals do...

1:00pm- we join the locals/ pensionärer and watch a Swedish movie at FolketsHus. I actually quite enjoyed it and could follow much of it even without English subtitles. Hooray, me! Apparently, it was the latest film in a Swedish version of “National Lampoon’s Vacation” series. Other films offered included Mission Impossible, Happy Feet2, and operas recorded from New York’s Metropolitan Opera.

Even from our limited experience, the importance of the FolketsHus was plain. It is THE gathering place in town for information and socializing. That, and the British pub down the street. Yes, even above the Arctic Circle, one can find a British pub.

  

3:30pm- we enjoy a late lunch of really good Thai food before heading back to the hotel. Of course, we’re wondering to ourselves, ‘what are Thai people doing above the Arctic Circle?! They must be really freezing!’ There are Brits and Spaniards at the tables beside us. It almost seems that the only Swedes in town are actually working in the mine.

 More stuff happened—and didn’t happen— but not more exciting than the already abovementioned.

Summary of Polar Expedition, Day 1: cold, snowy, good movie, good Thai food, lots of wondering what we were doing up here.

The Swedish New Year’s Countdown

In any culture, polite words or phrases of good cheer or good luck abound during holiday times. Here is my “phrasebook countdown” to guide you into properly welcoming in the New Year.



…10!

• Maybe I can get Dick Clark to help me out next year



…9!

• or even Ryan Seacrest



…8!

• You know there is no “Dr. Suess’ Grinch Who Stole Christmas” here? Sorry Swedes, but Kalle Anka just doesn’t cut it for me. The glögg (warmed spiced wine) is quite good though.



…7!


• God Jul! = Merry Christmas! Exchanged pretty much any time from the beginning of Advent until Christmas day.



…6!

• Annandag= known as Boxing Day in the United Kingdom, it’s the day after Christmas. Nothing much happens this day.



…5!

• Mellandagarna = the days between Christmas and New Years.



…4!

• Mellandagsrea= the store sales that take place between Christmas and New Years. Pretty much the biggest shopping sale days of the year.



…3!


• God Fortsättning!= Directly translated as “happy (or good) continuation.” It is what you can say after Christmas and up until New Year.



…2!


• Gott Slut!= Directly translated as “happy (or good) end.” It is something else you can say after Christmas and up until New Year.



…1!


• Gott Nytt År= Happy New Year!



Thanks to Heydar Maboudi for the beautiful photo of Stockholm celebrating the New Year.



Ode to My Wake-Up Light

The legendary svenska vintermörkret (Swedish Winter darkness) is not as bad as what is shown in the picture, at least not in Stockholm. But let me tell you, it is pretty darn difficult to get up in the morning when the soluppgång (sunrise) doesn't occur until about 8:45am (the solnedgång or sundown is around 2:45pm). We are quickly approaching the shortest day of the year (December 22), though, so very soon the days will become longer again. Hallelujah!

The darkness has only been bearable thanks to my Philips Wake Up Light. It is an alarmklocka (alarm clock) that gradually wakes you up with ljus (light) to imitate a sunrise so that by the time you wake up/the alarm goes off (I prefer the chirping birds sound option), the sun is 'up' in your room.

Believe me, one real Swedish Winter is enough to make you truly appreciate the sun. I know how grateful I am to not be living in Norway's Longyearbyen, the world's northernmost town (which actually has American roots). Like most found-in-the-middle-of-nowhere settlements, mining is the town's reason for existence.

Read about the town and the Philips' experiment:

Philips WakeUp Light

Tastes Like Christmas

Recently, we hosted a dinner party where the theme was Indian. For dessert, we served homemade kulfi ice cream. One bite of the kulfi, which was flavored with kardemumma (cardamom), nejlika (clove), and kanel (cinnamon),  and a guest exclaimed enthusiastically, 'it tastes like Christmas!"

I thought it a bit odd to be compared with Swedish Christmas which I associate with ham and herring. Chai latte was the taste comparison I had expected. But kardemumma, nejlika, and kanel are the flavors of Christmas baking in Sweden and have been for generations. I would love to find out more as to how these very Asian spices made their way so very far North to become completely inseparable with local cultural traditions.

What does Christmas 'taste like' to you?

Sick Daze

The American Cold (förskyld) Remedy: take some NyQuil^(R) or other assorted over-the-counter (a.k.a. prescription-free) drugs, eat chicken soup, watch television, and sleep. One to two days later and voila!, we magically feel better and are back at the office (if, indeed, we even took a day off).

The Swedish Förskyllningsmedicin (cold medicine): Stanna hem och sköta om sig! (Stay home and take care of yourself). "Take care of yourself" translates to stay home, drink lots of fluids, and get lots of rest.

That doesn't sound so bad except my American body craves government-approved prescription-free drugs when I'm not feeling well. Actually, what it craves is the OPTION of having them. Having spoken to some ex-pat friends from around the world, at least I can say, it's not only an American need.

Here in Sweden, Apoteket is the pharmacy of choice. For years, it was the only choice. Swedish pharmacies are also actually just that-- pharmacies. They don't sell groceries, candy, pantyhose, greeting cards, cosmetics, small electronics, holiday decoration, or the like. What they also do not have is a selection of OTC medicines. You have your choice of Alvedon^(R)  which is essentially Tylenol^(R), or Ipren^(R) which is Advil^(R)/ibuprophen, a couple of stomach remedies, seemingly too many nail anti-fungals, Claritin^(R) although spelled Clarityn^(R). If you require anything stronger than what I've listed, you will need a recept (prescription) from a doctor.

The Swedish remedy for the common cold or most illnesses does not come in a medicine bottle. It is firmly grounded in the belief that one must simply rest, and let our immune systems do their jobs. Of course, not all Swedes succumb to this cultural idiosyncrasy. Some savvy Swedish tourists have been known to stock up on NyQuil^(R) when they're vacationing in the States (we are no exception).

 

The Swedish government takes this notion of sköta om sig very seriously and has implemented compensation rules as they apply to sick days:

• Sick Day 1: no pay
• Sick Day 2-14: 80% paid by the company (this is to encourage the company to create and nurture a healthy working environment)
• Sick Days 15-90: government  partially pays along with the company

For my recent cold, I embraced the Swedish remedy and stayed home for 4 days. I also took NyQuil^(R) and ate chicken soup just to be sure. 

*All brands and products mentioned are registered marks of their respective owners.

 

 

 

You Want Me to Eat That?

Remember how you learned never to eat anything from a bulging can?  Well, noone seemed to inform the Swedes.

Surströmming (rotten fermented herring)... just typing the words is making me gag. It's a 'delicacy' -- and I use that phrase extremely loosely-- from northern Sweden enjoyed by some Swedes all over the country. Whereas kräftor (crayfish) is universally popular, surströmming is definitely an acquired taste that ilicits strong love-hate debate.
 
For better or worse, I have married into a family which is most pointedly on the 'love' side of the bulge and relish the moment when the cans, which have been 'brewing' all summer will be opened. In the moment of my virgin experience, I was forced to leave the room and find breething solace in my sleeve. Swedes are so environmentally aware, how can they pollute the air like this?!!


According to Wikipedia, a Japanese study has shown that the smell of a newly opened can of surströmming is the most putrid smell of food in the world, winning out over similar fermented fish dishes from Korea and Japan.

In Asia, the durian fruit is king of offensive smells. The Singaporeans go so far to ban them from public transport. Surströmming  is banned from certain airlines, which consider the bulging pressurized containers to be potentially dangerous as an explosive. Anders has said, that as a kid, he couldn't have friends over to the house for weeks in the winter time because of the lingering, pungent smell that had permeated into the walls.

So this is the background. I returned to the table after several minutes. Whereas I had been willing to try the  surströmming at the beginning of the party, the overwhelming abnoxious odor stifled all appetite from my body and I was forced to pass until next time.

If you can get past the odor, you eat it as part of a surströmming smörgås (surströmming sandwich) with cheese, sourcream, boiled potatoes, and onions on crisp tunnbröd (thin bread similar to lavash) and accompanied by snaps, beer, and songs.

Take a look on YouTube if you don't believe me. Even Jamie Oliver was shocked by the overwhelmingly potent smell.